Guy shows up at the café (www.themeetingplacecafecusco.com) a few months ago and orders a pile
of food. Tops it all off with a grasshopper milkshake and hangs out to ask
about the MotoMission poster on the bulletin board. I gave him a good pitch and
the glands in his mouth started producing. We talked bikes. We talked routes.
We talked types of terrain. Then we talked possibilities.
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In the beginning...Clean bikes and no sore muscles. |
I prepared them as good as anyone can for a ride of the caliber
that we were to do. However, because of the nature of the pure adventure of it
all, there is no amount of planning that can prepare you for what these guys
were signing up to do.
We agreed to attempt the Salkantay route. It is a popular
route for trekkers that want to try their new boots on and get to the top without
having to break down and jump on the back of the “ambulance mule.”
Brian had trekked it before and knew it would be a tough
challenge, but doable. He was sure his pops would be able to handle the trail
as well. As we communicated the options amongst ourselves, we chose to make the Salkantay as the core of the route. Everything
else was a trail to get to or from it.
The guys arrived in Cusco. I hooked up with them to go over
the details of the journey. We talked about what to bring and not to bring. I also
focused on making sure these guys were pumped up about the craziness that was
rapidly coming our way.
Day One - Strap Your Boots on Man!
Dropping into a pristine lake near Chinchero |
We headed back to the MotoMission headquarters to gear up.
It was quite a process as we were going to be on the trail for 5 days. There would be
no support vehicles as the trail we were taking was off the grid with regards to access
by car. We had to make sure we were totally ready for anything.
My family cooked up an amazing breakfast for us. We
distributed weight. We reviewed the tool and extra parts list. We grinned from
ear to ear knowing that this was going to be a blast.
Within about an hour, we were ready to depart. We mounted up on the bikes, and hit the trail.
However, before we left, we had a bit of a conversation to set the ride rules.
Keep the wheels down and head up. If you are spent, stop and rest. If you are not sure you can make it, stop and
rest. If you need to pass somebody, there are no rules…just do it!
Don’t Die on the First Day
We began with a difficult test; A climb out of the Cusco
valley via a rocky single track uphill that goes from 11000ft to about 13000 in
about a mile of riding. Technical enough to whip you and high enough to cause
cardiac arrest. Combine the two and it was a great way to start our adventure.
We made it to the top. From there, it was a fun ride to
Chinchero and then to Iscuchaca where we devoured a piece of chicken or two
while the local kids passed by in amazement at the crazy gringos that happened
to be out of place and in their town.
From Iscuchaca, we made our way down into the valley of
Limatambo. The road down to the bottom of the valley was loaded with cuts that
were essentially single track walking paths for the locals that do not like to
do switchbacks. It was there that the first sketchy get off took place. Brian
had a bout with low siding down a steep embankment that left his helmet
visorless and his body a bit shaken. He was a trooper and quickly shook it off.
We quickly arrived in Limatambo looking for some superglue to fix the visor.
Along with the visor, a front fork leak was scaring us a bit as we had a lot of
riding left to go. So we searched Limatambo for a roll of 35 mm film with which
Pete was going to dazzle us young pups with an old trick of the trade. He was going to use it to remove the debris
that was causing the leak in the fork seal. To no avail, all we got was a good Peruvian run
around. Our final stop for the day was Mollepata. It was a short ride up the
side of a mountain. The views were amazing as the sun seemed to spotlight the
highest hillsides and terrain as we traversed back and forth on the
switchbacks.
Plenty of great single track on this route |
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Our digs in Mollepata...All to ourselves |
After a hot shower, a good dinner, and a bit of fixing bikes
in the dark, we called it a night. We all slept like babies knowing that the following
day would be our big test. The Salkantay was in our dreams that night. At that
point we were not sure if it would be a nightmare or not, but the next day
would be arriving soon. Into a deep sleep with a smile on our faces from a
great first day.
Day Two - No Other Dirtbikes on This Trail…
Getting through the valley before the Salkantay Pass |
Almost to the top...Salkantay Mountain in the background |
While at the top, pictures are a must. Most people never
take the opportunity to be at that high of a place in their lifetimes, except
for a flight. Better take a picture!
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Cold and tired, but on top of the world-15,300 feet |
With our pictures taken, we mounted up, and started our
descent down the rocky trail towards the jungle that it enters in just a few
miles down the way. Our skills were tested throughout the section as the ledges
were steep, the trail was nearly impassable at points, and our bodies were
spent from the previous battle between man and machine.
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Brian posing with an incredible back drop |
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Couple of handsome fellas taking a selfie shot |
We finally arrived at the end of the trail section which was
a big relief. It was a long day and seeing some dirt road to ride was a treat.
We bombed down the dirt road towards a popular spot for the trekkers called, La
Playa. We passed through to find ourselves getting slapped in the helmets
by the jungle shrubbery as we cut corners on our race through the plethora of
coffee plantations to arrive in Santa Teresa.
There was an invitation by some hot springs that we did not want to pass up. We quickly arrived in Santa Teresa and went straight to the hot springs. Dinner was devoured, and the hot springs welcomed us with open arms.
There was an invitation by some hot springs that we did not want to pass up. We quickly arrived in Santa Teresa and went straight to the hot springs. Dinner was devoured, and the hot springs welcomed us with open arms.
We soaked until our skin was wrinkled up like a 100 year grandpa.
The hotel situation was great too. We
stayed at the best place we could find. They had parking for the bikes and
enough beds for the three of us. Nothing else mattered at that point. Day two
was a huge success. Tired and smiling; both of which are an indication of a
good day!
Day Three - That Ain’t no Motorcycle Trail!
The scenery is surreal... |
On top of Malaga, there begins a downhill mountain bike
trail that was just recently used for a big downhill competition. The trail is well
marked, contained no traffic, and goes downhill like a bad investment. Needless
to say it was an adrenaline filled drop to the bottom. It was a perfect amount
of trail after the previous day. It also led us to a little town at the end of
The Sacred Valley of the Incas named Ollantaytambo. There, we were able to fill
up on a couple of great pizzas, clean up at our hostel, and then head out for
some exploring(on dirtbikes of course!).
We ran across a couple of trails that really got us excited.
It was a great day to finish up with some free riding. We discovered a few trailheads
that would lead us into the area that we would be riding the next day, even
though we had a different start point. It was exciting to see the options. Back
to town for a brownie smothered in chocolate to get us through the night and
then it was bed time. We had another good day to look forward to.
Day Four – We Had No Idea
We encountered some juicy mud |
The trail started with a batch of singletrack rising up
behind a small community of Patacancha. As we passed through, the local young boys
observed the team of motorcycles powering up the path. They often would stick
out their hands for a high five or give us the windmill motion for us to turn
the throttle and rip on by. Gotta love the thrill of boys and motorcycles…
The trail for the day held many an obstacle for us. The
first part was full of rocky outcroppings that we had to maneuver over and
through. At altitude, these were difficult. The terrain went from super perfect
smooth dirt to slick mud, to grass trail in matters of seconds. This kept Pete,
Brian, and I on our guards. In fact, when we failed to be ready, we often found
ourselves picking up our bikes and brushing off our knees.
So many great spots... |
We managed to get through a lot of difficult sections while
maintaining our awe of the scenery. It seemed like every time we would stop,
the conversation would start with a, “can you believe this? “ or, “this is
incredible. Can it get any better?”
Arriving at the final climb before the pass to the Lares
Valley, we encountered an obstacle that was quite difficult; A long muddy hill,
full of ruts, slick grass, and lots of feet above sea level. With many attempts
by Brian, he finally made it. Trying all the different options, he worked his way
up and down a number of times before he finally found the route. Then it was
time for Pete to give it a shot. Pete was whipped from the past 20 miles.
However, he managed to take the route that Brian pointed out with hand motions from
the top. Pete, gave it a couple of go’s and arrived at the top, winded and
grinning from ear to ear. High five with his boy on top of the world!
Next was my turn. I was able to get up the slimy hillside
to congratulate the boys on a good climb. It was not easy, but the reward was
three fold. First, the view was dualiscious( made that word up). On one side, we
looked back at the valley we had just come from. There are not enough memory
cards in the world that could capture the beauty of it. Then as we looked at
the trail that slithered down in front of us and into the next valley, we realized that it just
kept going. Second, the feeling of accomplishment of reaching the top of the
pass was invigorating. We were spent…our energy level was waning, but as we
reached the top, there was some sort of energy that filled us up. It was needed
as we had another tough stretch in our route. Third, as a team of three, we
were doing this together. We all had our share of difficulties along the trail.
Helping each other to get through is part of the thrill. We felt like we had
accomplished the task of getting to the pass.
What a refreshing moment it was. We took a lot of pictures, celebrated a
bit, and talked about if only so and so could be here.
The downhill in front of us was daunting. The trail went
down, and down fast. As we fired up the bikes and bombed down the tight rocky single
track, it was obvious that we were not in an easy place to ride. The angle of
the hill, the looseness of the rock, and the slickness of the mud all created a
double black diamond type of run; Fun, but a bit sketchy.
We meandered down through the valley to find ourselves at
the most difficult part of the trail. It was a rock outcropping with no other
way around. Over the top, to the edge, and down the rocky switchbacks to reach
the moist meadow at the bottom. It was a scene out of a Chronicles of Narnia
movie. Curious but scared alpacas scurried on the rock ledges above. The
others critters took breaks from grazing on the greens, lifted their long necks, and caught a view of the
action as we dropped down the rocks.
Pristine mountain lake nestled in a high valley above Lares |
With the last leg of our route in our sights, we continued
through the end of the valley where the town of Huacahuasi lays nestled in the
valley floor with the culmination of all the water from the upper part forming
a river that feeds the town with life. The trail however, ran along the upper valley
wall and descended down to the town in a perfect riding trail. Just pure fun.
Pete and Brian had the biggest cheese eatin’ grins on their faces when we got
to the bottom. I could tell it was a good day for those fellas.
Once we got across the little bridge, we had a a short jaunt
to the Lares Hot Springs where we found a place to stay, and a great place to
soak off some soreness from the day’s adventure. Dinner was ordered for 6.
Brian still had a bit of energy left, so we went on an exploratory ride and
found some super technical trail that thrilled us to no end. It was not only a
great trail, but ended up at a couple of high lakes that were fed with
cascading waterfalls and glaciers. There was no shortage of beauty.
another crossing point over water... |
Day Five – The Grand Finale
We had little on the morning agenda but to get up when we
wanted, eat breakfast when we wanted, and leave when we wanted. The days ride
was going to be loaded toward the end of the day. We had some dirt road riding
to get back to the Sacred Valley. There we ate a great big lunch at the Blue
Llama on the main plaza in the quaint little town of Pisac. Pot roast and
mashed potatoes…Just like Grandma’s!
From there, it was a short ride up the canyon to reach the trail.
We had talked about a tough challenge for the finale, and both Pete and Brian
were up to the task; Make it to the cross on Picol Mountain. To get there, we
put our tires on a ridge trail that has a tendency to make dirt bikers smile.
It is an amazing tight trail that has the Cusco valley on the right and the
small community of CCorrau on the left. We were literally riding on the ridge! Once we
got to the end of that trail, we found ourselves at the starting point for the climb
up Picol.
We took a good break and discussed the possibilities. I
really wanted the guys to give it a go. I also realized that we had just spent
4 and a half days pushing ourselves to the limits of our strengths and
abilities. It was their call. I am here to get them to the top if they chose.
I knew Brian was in. As for Pete, I was not sure. With a big
sigh, and a confident shoulder drop, Pete let out a good word. “Let’s give it a
shot!”
With a bit of instruction to just keep going until you cannot
go any further, I fired up my bike to help give them an idea of the line. I
quickly petered out, pulled my bike off the trail to let them pass and gave
them a good windmill motion for them to keep on going. We leapfrogged up the
hill like a couple of mountaineers conquering a summit.
Shortly after our commencement, we found ourselves bushed.
Our lungs were craving more oxygen while our minds were screaming obscenities
at us for doing this. That is how it typically goes with a challenging
hillclimb. There were a couple spots where it would have been really easy to
call it quits and head back down. However, Pete and Brian kept the goal in mind
and pushed through the difficulty. Between the three of us, we managed to get
past the most difficult part. From there, it was a long but not technical climb
to the cross at the top. With Brain making it first, standing on top with his hands in the
air out of celebration, Dad was right behind. I got to see these two gents
arrive at the top with another celebration. What a finish! It was a finish,
because just at the bottom of Picol is the headquarters for MotoMission.
We captured a lot of moments on video, took a good share of pics, once again talked about so and so and
how they would love this, and then found out that our water supply had been
depleted with the previous hours of struggle. We were all super thirsty and
decided to bail down the hill. A few minutes later, we found ourselves dropping
into the valley of Cusco. We arrived at the MotoMission office with worn out
bodies, busted up motorcycles, and the sense of complete satisfaction and
accomplishment.
Pete and Brian were the first group of guys that I have taken
on this route. It was a physical struggle. It was full of victories and
defeats. However, as goes with motos, the glory is in the journey; And glorious
it was.
I must say that this was as exciting for me as for anyone.
This was an ideal tour. The planning and prep paid off. We were flexible enough
to stay on somewhat of a schedule. Pete
and Brian were not only great riders, but awesome fellas as well. I had a great
time getting to know them and hearing about their lives. I have never met their
family, but feel like I know them all. 5 days of that type of adventure and you
get to know one another. I have to say it was a highlight!
The tour was technically over on Saturday, but we ended up
with over a hundred gigs of video and pics that we needed to share. So the next
day, we connected to transfer the memories to their hard drive. That way they
could go home and not just talk about it, but show some of their soon to be jealous
friends about the adventure in Peru.
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Father and Son on top of Picol...Great ride fellas! |
In addition, I was able to take them to the Altivas Canas
Children’s project on the outskirts of Cusco. The model of the business is that
all of the profits from these tours go to fund that project. These guys got to
see the project first hand. It may not have been a driving factor in doing the
tour, but it sure is a huge benefit for the mission. The Altivas Canas Children’s
project is a project that supports single mothers and their children by giving
the kids a place to go after school. When the kids go home each night, their
homework is done, bellies are filled with a nutritious meal, and the kids have
gotten some energy out of their systems. The kids can just go home and spend
time with Mom. It's a beautiful project!
Having the time of your life while supporting an awesome
project is a great combination. Thank
you Pete and Brian for taking this adventure with us. Enjoy the memories. Share
the videos. Come back and do it again!
Braaaaaaaap!
Scott
MotoMission Peru